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~~ Fun Facts ~~ Orchids grow new shoots, often more than once per year, and the oldest shoots eventually die off; in most cases, however, the plant as a whole is immortal.
~~~
Most cultivated orchids don't grow in soil because they would suffocate; in tropical regions they're generally found growing in trees, on rocks, cliffs - anywhere but in the dirt!
~~~
The first tropical orchids in European cultivation were brought to England in the mid 18th century.
~~~
There are orchids less than one half inch in height - the whole plant! - and there are others much larger than the largest human, weighing around a half ton. Most, however, are of a handy size for us to grow and enjoy.
~~~
There
are around 28,000 naturally occurring orchid species, all pollenated
by insects.
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watercolor
pink ladyslipper |
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The
Chocolate orchids (Oncidiineae)get black spots in response to
high temperatures, anything over about 85 degrees will produce
them and when the temperature drops they stop forming. They don't
threaten the plant unless temperatures continue to be very high.
The physical process is that the plants' leaves are making too
much sugar for the plant at a high temperature, and yeast spores
that are always present in the air get into the pores on the underside
of the leaf and start fermenting the sugar, which produces very
small amounts of alcohol, which kills a small area of plant cells
around the pore, and they turn black. When the temperature drops,
the plant stops making sugar so quickly and it can again move
the sugar it makes down the veins in the leaves to be stored in
the "bulbs" at the base; this is the secret orchids
have for blooming so much - they store LOTS of energy and later
release it as flowers. ~~~ Ladyslipper orchids do not eat insects. Instead, they shamelessly use them for purposes of pollenation, then let the insects leave. Apparently, it's less costly biologically than it would be to make a nectar treat.
~~~
One orchid seed pod can contain up to around 100,000 viable seeds. They look like dust and are borne on the wind. In nature, few orchids survive to adulthood, 7 to 10 years later.
~~~
Most orchids we see in cultivation need to be at least four years old to bloom fairly well; many are much, much older. Large Phalaenopsis plants you see are generally 7 to 9 years old.
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PHALAENOPSIS
- Moth Orchids are warmth-loving orchid
plants native to jungles and rainforests of Southeast Asia. Phalaenopsis
are known well for the length of time their blooms can last - 3 or 4
months is typical; we have seen some last a half a year in bloom. Consistent,
even care as follows is the key with these classically beautiful orchids.
Phalaenopsis must be kept warm - by which we mean comfortable indoor
temperatures, 60 degrees F. minimum at night, with a temperature increase
during the day of about 10 to 15 degrees. They readily tolerate higher
temperatures, but will require more frequent watering if temperatures
are in the 90s. If it is your desire to bring the plant into bloom again,
it will be necessary to allow it to have night temperatures around 55
to 58 degrees F for a period of no less than six weeks, followed by
normal warmer temperatures.
Phalaenopsis have no pseudobulbs, and so cannot conserve much water;
they require watering frequent enough to remain evenly, consistently
moist. They can be watered best by placing them in a sink and running
cold water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds, or alternatively a couple
of ice cubes can be placed on the bark medium in the pots and allowed
to melt, the slower trickle of water providing enough moisture to sustain
the plant. In this second method, the plants should nonetheless be watered
thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals deposited in the bark
medium to be rinsed out. Morning is the best time to water any orchids.
Twice a week while blooming will usually be sufficient for a large plant;
if two flower stems are present, three times may be required. When not
blooming, once per week is usually enough. When watering, remove the
plant in its plastic pot from the decorative pot/basket.
Phalaenopsis greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild dilutions
of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle Grow,
Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; in most cases, the label will provide
information on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make
a solution - but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example,
if the label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon
of water, to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon
of granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer
can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach
of children (and away from light, which will allow algae to grow in
the water in unsightly fashion).
Phalaenopsis are plants of shady forests, and so their needs for light
can be met easily. One half hour, up to an hour, of full sun in the
early morning, OR sun diminished by sheer curtains for a longer period,
OR very bright shade, such as a spot in a sunroom that happens never
to be in full sun, are some variations any of which would provide enough
light to allow the plants to grow and bloom.
The last item of concern is you! Take a little time to admire the stately
display; go closer and explore the intricacies of the floral structure.
We think you'll find a bit of peace of mind, a brief mental vacation
in your piece of tropical paradise.
~~ Growing Tip ~~
All the excess water needs to drain out of the pot after watering your orchid, this will prevent rotting roots; many orchids grow on trees in the wild where their roots are exposed to the air.
MILTONIA
- the Pansy Orchid
Miltonias are native to "cloud forests", higher elevation
jungles of Colombia, Venezuela and Peru in the lower slopes of the South
American Andes mountains. There, moisture is provided more by fogs that
roll in repeatedly throughout the day and night, and, situated so near
the equator at elevations of 3000 to 5000 feet, it's always Spring.
As a result, the plants have no set blooming time, but instead oftenb
are both blooming and sending out new shoots to bloom in their turn.
As a shoot matures, it sends out one or two bloom stems. A large plant
can be blooming intermittently throughout the year.
Almost all may be kept cool or warm - by which we mean nothing more
than comfortable indoor temperatures, 50 to 60 degrees F. at night,
with a temperature increase during the day of about 10 to 15 degrees.
They readily tolerate higher temperatures, but should really not be
exposed for any length of time to temperatures in the 90s. On the cool
side, they are perfectly happy with nights as low as 40 degrees F occasionally
and 45 degrees routinely.
Miltonias require watering frequently enough to maintain a level of
moisture in the pot that is not dripping wet at all times, nor dry ever;
evenly, consistently moist. They can be watered best by placing them
in a sink and running cold water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds,
or alternatively an ice cube can be placed on the bark medium in the
pots and allowed to melt, the slower trickle of water providing enough
moisture to sustain the plant. In this second method, the plants should
nonetheless be watered thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals
deposited in the bark medium to be rinsed out. Morning is the best time
to water any orchids. Twice a week while blooming will usually be sufficient
for a large plant; if more than two flower stems are present, three
times may be required. When not blooming, once per week is usually enough.
When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative
pot/basket.
These orchids greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild
dilutions of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle
Grow, Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; the label will provide information
on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make a solution
- but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example, if the
label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon of water,
to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon of
granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer
can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach
of children (and away from light - algae will grow in the water in unsightly
fashion).
Miltonias' needs for light can be met easily. One half hour, up to an
hour, of full sun in the early morning, OR sun diminished by sheer curtains
for a longer period, OR very bright shade, such as a spot in a sunroom
that happens never to be in full sun, are some variations any of which
would provide enough light to allow the plants to grow and bloom.
A special note of caution: do not rub the flowers. They are very soft,
bruise easily, as their structure is essentially similar to a butterfly's
wing - microscopic villi (hairs) cover the entire surface, and bear
most of the pigmentation - when rubbed off, a whitish patch that quickly
turns soggy brown will develop. This is also why we have to send them
several days before they actually start to open - otherwise, they arrive
with bruised flowers!
Oncidiinae Cloud Forest Assortment Orchids
This group of orchids (properly, generally called the Oncidiinae ) is
native to "cloud forests", higher elevation jungles from Central
America south to Peru, in the lower slopes of the Central American Cordilleras
and South American Andes mountains. In this climate, whose moisture
is provided more by fogs that roll in repeatedly throughout the day
and night, there is little variation in temperature, day length, or
seasons - situated so near the equator, at elevations of 3000 to 5000
feet, one could say that it's always Spring.
Almost all may be kept cool or warm - by which we mean nothing more
than comfortable indoor temperatures, 50 to 60 degrees F. at night,
with a temperature increase during the day of about 10 to 15 degrees.
They readily tolerate higher temperatures, but most (aside from the
golden yellow Oncidium) should really not be exposed for any length
of time to temperatures in the 90s. On the cool side, they are perfectly
happy with nights as low as 40 degrees F occasionally and 45 degrees
routinely. Temperature is not a factor in persuading these orchids to
bloom again. A few exceptions: the yellow dancing ladies as well as
the Spider orchids (Brassia) like to be kept warmer, 55 degree minimum
preferred.
As with many orchids, these require watering frequently enough to maintain
a level of moisture that is evenly, consistently moist. Of course it
will be wetter just after watering but the point is to never let the
plants dry out completely. They can be watered best by placing them
in a sink and running cold water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds,
or alternatively an ice cube can be placed on the bark medium in the
pots and allowed to melt, the slower trickle of water providing enough
moisture to sustain the plant. In this second method, the plants should
nonetheless be watered thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals
deposited in the bark medium to be rinsed out. Morning is the best time
to water any orchids. Twice a week while blooming will usually be sufficient
for a large plant; if more than two flower stems are present, three
times may be required. When not blooming, once per week is usually enough.
When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative
pot/basket.
These orchids greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild
dilutions of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle
Grow, Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; in most cases, the label will provide
information on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make
a solution - but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example,
if the label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon
of water, to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon
of granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer
can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach
of children (and away from light, which will allow algae to grow in
the water in unsightly fashion).
These are orchids of brightly shady forests, and so their needs for
light can be met easily. One to two hours of full sun in the early morning,
OR sun diminished by sheer curtains for a longer period, OR very bright
shade, such as a spot in a sunroom that happens never to be in full
sun, are some variations any of which would provide enough light to
allow the plants to grow and bloom.
PAPHIOPEDILUM and PHRAGMIPEDIUM (Ladyslipper Orchids):
These are two superficially similar groups of orchids, collectively known as Lady's Slippers. As with all orchids, the plants generate new shoots each year, sometimes reblooming more than once per year.
The Paphiopedilums are those Lady's Slipper orchids that are found in Asia. All bear a characteristic "slipper", the third petal or lip, modified to force unwary insects to pollenate the flowers without a reward of nectar. The individual blooms typically last 2 to 3 months in perfection. While it's not possible here to elaborate exact culture for each variety, most of the thousands upon thousands of hybrids of this popular variety can be grown in the following general ways.
As regards temperature, there are two types of Paphiopedilum: warm, and cool. Warm Paphiopedilums (we often shorten the name to "Paph") prefer nights in the upper 50s to mid 60s F, rather as do we humans, year round. Mainly, warm Paphs are recognized by their attractive, mottled light and dark green (some have 3 colors of green!) leaves.
Cool Paphs generally have plain green leaves, sometimes with a purplish flush or speckles underneath. These cool Paph hybrids can be kept the same as the warm varieties but must, must, must be kept cooler in the late summer through fall, and only allowed back into the pleasant warmth when their large, waxy blooms are fully opened. Without this cooling period you will have a robust but never-blooming plant.
These temperature requirements are general rules of thumb. This is a varied group of orchids, and exceptions do exist. We would surely advise if a plant you or your lucky gift recipient were to recieve required unusual care.
A spot out of direct sun generally suits the Paphs well - again, there are exceptions but we would surely advise if such were the case. Shade growers, they don't need much light.
All the Paphs like to be kept quite moist. Generally, water two or three times per week, never allowing them to become dry. Water in the mornings as with other orchids. When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative pot/basket.
You can fertilize Paphs with an extremely dilute solution of fertilizer, about two times per month is enough. Dissolve about 1/2 teaspoon of commercial fertilizer in a gallon of water and water through the pot thoroughly. Paphs really don't need much, some seem to need no, fertilizer.
There are a few different requirements for the Phragmipediums, the Central and South American Lady's Slipper orchids. Let's call them Phrags. There is considerably less differentiation than is found in the Paphiopedilums - most bear multiple flowers per stem, opening only one at a time, and have plain green leaves.
Virtually all have the same cultural requirements:
They must have lots of water. Watering these orchids every day is the safest thing to do. These orchids like to be kept really soaking wet. When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative pot/basket. This is one kind that actually can sit in 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water most of the time.
Almost all the varieties, both species and hybrids, enjoy comfortable indoor temperatures as do we humans, nights can be anywhere from about 55 degrees F to 68; days can be in the low 70s up to about 85.
They prefer brighter light; their needs for light can be met easily. One to two hours of full sun in the early morning, OR sun diminished by sheer curtains for a longer period, OR very bright shade, such as a spot in a sunroom that happens never to be in full sun, are some variations any of which would provide enough light.
Phrags can be fertilized a bit more than the Paphs, the same thin solution of fertilizer can be applied up to once per week.
Zygopetalum
Orchids (and other cool, bright and dry winter orchids):
This group of orchids is native to southern Brazil, many found south
of the Tropic of Capricorn. In their native climate, where moisture
is provided by drenching rains from late spring through fall, followed
by a drier winter, Zygopetalums enjoy temperatures much like those here
in the San Francisco Bay area - winter nights may be in the 30s, summer
days can hit the 90s F, and sunlight is mild but bright. When blooming,
Zygopetaliums may be kept in comfortable indoor temperatures, 50 to
60 degrees F. at night, with a temperature increase during the day of
about 10 to 15 degrees. On the cool side, they are perfectly happy with
nights as low as 35 degrees F occasionally and 45 degrees routinely.
Temperature is a factor in persuading these orchids to bloom again.
They must have nights in the 40s in mid to late fall. NOTE: Leaves will
spot when temperatures are high; it is common and does not harm the
plant. Also, leaves may drop each year or be held on the plant for 2
years. When they become sufficiently unsightly they may be clipped off.
As with many orchids, these require watering frequently enough to maintain
a level of moisture that is evenly, consistently moist. Of course it
will be wetter just after watering but the point is to never let the
plants dry out completely. They can be watered best by placing them
in a sink and running cold water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds,
or alternatively an ice cube can be placed on the bark medium in the
pots and allowed to melt, the slower trickle of water providing enough
moisture to sustain the plant. In this second method, the plants should
nonetheless be watered thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals
deposited in the bark medium to be rinsed out.
Morning is the best time to water any orchids. Once a week while blooming
will usually be sufficient for a large plant. When not blooming, once
per week is usually still enough; if your summer weather is very hot,
twice will be necessary.
When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative
pot/basket. Also, water sparingly during the cool months in late fall.
NOTE: Do not allow water to enter the funnel-shaped growths as they
come up they can rot easily!
These orchids greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild
dilutions of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle
Grow, Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; in most cases, the label will provide
information on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make
a solution - but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example,
if the label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon
of water, to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon
of granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer
can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach
of children (and away from light, which will allow algae to grow in
the water in unsightly fashion).
Fertilize less frequently through cold winter months. These are orchids
of bright forests, and so their needs for light can be met with a bit
of full sun in the morning - yellowish green leaves indicate possibly
too much light, a light green is ideal. This means that the plants will
grow and rebloom best if you can keep them outside in an eastern (morning
sun) exposure. In areas of warm summers they may be kept outdoors in
dappled shade until the fall temperatures threaten frost.
Cymbidium
Orchids (applies both to miniature and standard kinds):
This group of orchids is native to higher elevation jungles from India
throughout southeast Asia to Australia; there are some from lower, warmer
elevations but these are almost unknown in cultivation. In their native
climate, where moisture is provided by drenching monsoon rains from
late spring through fall, followed by a drier winter, Cymbidiums enjoy
temperatures much like those here in the San Francisco Bay area - winter
nights may be in the 30s with occasional light frosts, summer days can
hit the 90s F, and sunlight is intense due to the high elevation and
tropical latitude.
When blooming, Cymbidiums may be kept in comfortable indoor temperatures,
50 to 60 degrees F. at night, with a temperature increase during the
day of about 10 to 15 degrees. On the cool side, they are perfectly
happy with nights as low as 35 degrees F occasionally and 45 degrees
routinely. Temperature is a factor in persuading these orchids to bloom
again. They must have nights in the 40s in mid to late fall.
As with many orchids, these require watering frequently enough to maintain
a level of moisture that is evenly, consistently moist. Of course it
will be wetter just after watering but the point is to never let the
plants dry out completely. They can be watered best by placing them
in a sink and running cold water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds,
or alternatively an ice cube can be placed on the bark medium in the
pots and allowed to melt, the slower trickle of water providing enough
moisture to sustain the plant. In this second method, the plants should
nonetheless be watered thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals
deposited in the bark medium to be rinsed out.
Morning is the best time to water any orchids. Twice a week while blooming
will usually be sufficient for a large plant; if more than two flower
stems are present, three times may be required. When not blooming, once
per week is usually enough; if your summer weather is very hot, twice
will be necessary. When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot
from the decorative pot/basket.
These orchids greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild
dilutions of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle
Grow, Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; in most cases, the label will provide
information on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make
a solution - but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example,
if the label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon
of water, to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon
of granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer
can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach
of children (and away from light, which will allow algae to grow in
the water in unsightly fashion). Fertilize less frequently through cold
winter months.
These are orchids of bright forests, and so their needs for light can
be met with a few hours of full sun in the morning - yellowish green
leaves indicate possibly too much light, a light green is ideal. This
means that the plants will grow and rebloom best if you can keep them
outside in an eastern (morning sun) exposure.
Cattleyas
(and their relatives)
Care and Growing Tips
Cattleyas are warmth-loving orchid plants native to jungles and rainforests
of Central and South America, with a few relatives occurring in the
southeast United States. Cattleyas must be kept warm - by which we mean
comfortable indoor temperatures, 55 to 60 degrees F. minimum at night,
with a temperature increase during the day of about 10 to 15 degrees.
They readily tolerate higher temperatures, but should be protected from
temperatures over 100 F Cattleyas and many of their relatives are the
orchids that DO like to dry out between waterings.
They can be watered best by placing them in a sink and running cold
water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds; the plants should be watered
thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals deposited in the bark
medium to be rinsed out. Morning is the best time to water any orchids.
Once a week to 10 days while blooming will usually be sufficient for
a large plant; if two flower stems are present, more waterings may be
required. When not blooming, once per two weeks is usually enough. When
watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative pot/basket.
Cattleyas greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild dilutions
of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle Grow,
Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; in most cases, the label will provide
information on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make
a solution - but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example,
if the label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon
of water, to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon
of granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer
can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach
of children (and away from light, which will allow algae to grow in
the water in unsightly fashion).
Cattleyas have a craving for light, but their needs can be met easily.
An hour to two hours of full sun in the early morning, OR sun diminished
by sheer curtains for a longer period, are some variations either of
which would provide enough light to allow the plants to grow and bloom.
The standard test for Cattleya light levels is: jade green leaves not
enough light. Yellowish green leaves, often with purplish blushing around
the edges plenty of light. Remember, the equation goes: Light + fertilizer
= flowers.
Cattleyas are one of the orchids that mostly take a rest after blooming
(some few do so before blooming). When there are no green root tips,
no new growth coming up from the base of the plant, and no flower buds
developing, your plant is most likely resting and requires that you
water it much less no more than 2 times per month!
The last item of concern is you! Take a little time to admire the stately
display; go closer and explore the intricacies of the floral structure.
We think you'll find a bit of peace of mind, a brief mental vacation
in your piece of tropical paradise.
Growing
Instructions by Carson Barnes
Photos by: Carson Barnes, Shabd-sangeet Khalsa & Don Dennis
